As I looked at my reflection in the window, I wondered, is Fashion made fresh and new like the sparkling snow each year? Or do we just cover it up, like the new falling snow covers yesterday’s snow… only to dig it up and use it again? I wondered.
I felt comfortable in the cozy restaurant of The Afanasy Nikitin Express. A Russian passenger train I traveled on to see what Russia has to offer. I was doing research for my new range.
Self-expression
My table was standing next to the fireplace. It felt warm. Snug. The crackling sound of the wood burning relaxed me. The room was crammed with the aroma of hot coffee and freshly baked Pryanuk… a traditional Russian spiced baked bread.
My cigarette smoke was making cunning patterns as it rolled its way to the ceiling… almost in rhythm with the train’s movement.
Suddenly it was hindered when the sliding doors of the restaurant compartment opened. Four men entered. Laughing. Joking. Looking happy. I admired their outfits… their clothing. They must have boarded when the train stopped in Moscow. I haven’t seen them before. Since I have been traveling for two days now.
They were wearing some sort of dancing outfit… ballet. Yes ballet. Tights, loosely knitted leg-and-knee warmers, chunky knitted jerseys and over-sized Cossack-like coats. One of them was wearing a corset with a low-rise-neckline t-shirt underneath… exposing his toned chest. Stunning I thought.
They must be dancers of some sort. Maybe traveling to their next show or rehearsal. They sat opposite my table. I watched them for a while… watching through the smoke escaping my
cigarette. Smoking. Watching.
My stomach tightened suddenly. Nervous. Nervous of the interview I was having at the next stop in St Petersburg. Viktoria Davydova the editor of Russian Vogue was going to interview me for an article they were doing on New Upcoming Designers. I was excited, but nervous.
She was meeting me on the train in the restaurant I was sitting in. This relaxed me a bit, because I felt comfortable and at ease here.
She was wearing a vintage, black Chanel shift dress with a Silver Fox Fur coat. She looked chic. Classic.
She smiled at me when I got up to greet her. Very nervous now. I didn’t know what the traditional Russian way was for greeting, but I kissed her on both cheeks. “That’s French”, I thought… damn! Did I just make a fool out of myself? She laughed and said something in Russian. I couldn’t understand her. She probably said I was an idiot for being so “French”. I just said, “Hallo”. We talked a bit about my trip and the places I’ve seen. Were we busy with the interview or just making Smalltalk? I was confused and anxious. She ordered a coffee from the waiter and said we can start with the interview. First she asked if she could bum a smoke. I smiled and relaxed. She might be wearing a Silver Fox Fur coat, but I’m the one with the cigarettes, and now she’s asking me for one.
Have you always known you wanted to be a fashion designer?
Definitely. I grew up in a small town where fashion was never really acknowledged and I was always known as the one with the “weird” clothes. That said, just
because you have a fashion sense does not mean you were born to be a fashion designer. I just knew. I always knew this is what I was going to do with my life.
What is your ‘style’ in terms of designing?
I always thought of my ‘style’ as being weird, but Lady Gaga is weird. I try to design clothes that help you as a person, express who you are. My designs are not plain and simple. It’s quite complicated and unique. I love structure. I love style lines. And I love abstract. Yes.
Abstract.
Are you mostly interested in Menswear of Women’s wear?
I love to do both, but I’m at a stage in my life where I am really interested in menswear. And I would like to focus on that for now.
In terms of a design process, which stage of the process do you find most challenging?
I find it very hard to get inspired. Everything is similar these days. Food, architecture, interior, exterior, music and even fashion. Its really hard to find something… to find inspiration that is concrete and original.
Do you think it is important do follow trends?
To a certain amount I do believe it is very important yes. Because even though we as designers want to be original and ‘new’ and do our own thing, it is still very important to keep in mind what the consumer wants. And the consumers want what is now and what is
happening… and that to a certain degree is trends. But you can stick to a trend, but still be original and
creative. Think outside the box!
What does fashion mean to you?
Fashion for me is a lifestyle. It’s something that’s all around us. It’s in the streets, in the music you listen you, in the movies you watch, even in the cigarettes you smoke… haha. Whether you want to be part of the “fashion lifestyle” or not, we are all affected by it in one-way or another. We all need it. I need it.
Describe your philosophy about the art of fashion.
Fashion design is a functional art. Not that all art isn't functional in some way, but it's art you can actually touch and feel and interact with and not be afraid to wear. In a way, it's sort of like music--it's a part of our daily life, something we can't live without, something we all interact with and so should be something we really love. I mean, our bodies are the most interesting elements, everyone does art about themselves. With clothing, mine anyway, it's the same thing but you get to wear it and interact with it on a daily basis and get all this feedback and reactions out of people and their thoughts on what you're doing. Which, of course, at times can be tiring but for the most part, you accept it and it's interesting. Above all, I just really believe that the right clothing and color can make you feel better about yourself and can give you more confidence.
What skills do you need to be a fashion designer?
Well, I guess that depends on what exactly you're doing. If you love all aspects of fashion design and you really want to be successful, I would hope that you know how to sew, draft patterns, drape and sketch. But I believe where you lack ‘knowledge’ of one thing, you make up with some sort of strength in something else. Practice makes perfect. I also think it is important to have good people skills.
Who are some of your favorite designers?
There are quite a few. But the three designers I think play the biggest role in fashion is John Galliano, Dolce&Gabbana and of coarse my favorite and all time best, Marc Jacobs.
What do you believe makes a quality article of
clothing?
Everything plays a role in the quality of clothing. The design, the fabric, the trims, details, the way it is cut, the quality of sewing and also the amount of creativity putt into a garment.
But in the end it all comes down to quality of sewing and choice of fabric for me personally. I mean even a simple tank top… if it is made out of stunning, good quality fabric and it is sewn perfectly, then it is a good quality article of clothing.
Do you consider yourself an artist?
I do yes. I consider everyone that creates something new and innovative as an artist. You don’t have to be a painter or cut your ear off do be an artist. Even if you just inspire people with what you do, you can be an artist. God blessed each and everyone of us with
amazing talents… we just need to focus on that talents, work with it and just be…
What matters to you most as a fashion designer?
What is most important to me is to be the best designer I can be. I don’t need to be the next Marc Jacobs or whatever the case may be. I believe that if you believe in yourself and your work, people will also believe. Stay true to yourself and stay focused on the task at hand. It is important to always be creative, innovative and
original… push boundaries and don’t be afraid to be different. I hope people understand me as a designer and respect me for what I do.
Where do you see fashion designing playing into your future?
I will be sad to stop designing, but as science takes center stage in most of our lives, it is only natural that activities which also take up a lot of time get put on the back burner. I think that I will always design as a
creative outlet. A long-term goal of mine is to get on Project Runway and to show at a major fashion week, but we will have to wait and see what happens.
Do you have any advice for aspiring designers – where to get started, and how to set up your own label?
Stay focused, work hard, be open-minded and get
carried away.
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